Adventure Week 7:
Glen Etive

A transformative week-long holiday staying in Glen Etive, one road away from Glen Coe, offered ample opportunities for relaxation and exploration.

As this holiday took place Saturday to Saturday, there's so much I want to cover, but it'll be necessary to be brief, otherwise this will turn into an essay. Rather than providing a chronological account of the holiday, I'm grouping my thoughts into areas and locations, noting particular days where relevant.

Glen Etive

In the middle of the Scottish Highlands, the arterial A82 winds its way from Loch Lomond to Fort William. Along the way, it passes through some of the Highlands' greatest scenery: Glen Coe. Right before descending the once inaccessible glen and sampling its sights, a small road sign points the route to Glen Etive.

Immediately the road becomes bumpy, and signs warn that it is single-track with passing places. Its undulating roads, perilously above the river Etive at times, and with many blind spots and sharp crests, keeps an eager foot hovered over the brake pedal.

Glen Etive is perhaps best known for a location used in the 2012 James Bond film Skyfall. Setting the film up for its dramatic finale, Bond (Daniel Craig) drives M (Judi Dench) into Scotland, towards his ancestral home, the film's namesake. Along the way they stop to admire the glen scenery and have a poignant conversation about Bond's parents.

This scene was filmed in Glen Etive, about one third of the way along its only road. While the film suggests that further sights and a large manor lay beyond, the location was chosen for its beauty, and Skyfall manor was a set constructed on a sound stage for the film. Glen Etive's road eventually terminates at Loch Etive. Nonetheless, many fans venture here to take the same iconic photo, stood in front of their car in the now well-worn lay-by.

I had insisted on the same pilgrimage when travelling through Glen Coe to the Isle of Skye with my friend Rin last summer. That gave me the first taste of a quiet valley, towered over on both sides by munros, dramatic scenery constantly unfolding with each passing moment of the drive.

The character of the landscape changes along the nearly 19-mile drive from junction to loch. Initially set amongst rolling hills, with torrential river swell deep below, the terrain begins to undulate around the Skyfall viewpoint. Beyond it, a flatter plains-like area flanked by mountains gives the greatest sense of verticality - the mountains above barely seem to move with each passing corner of the road.

At Dalness, a large green estate stands behind a wooden fence. Driving back out of the glen reveals a stately home with newer outbuildings, and the closest land you'll find here resembling a lawn. Horses in coats roam nearby.

Deeper yet, Glen Etive Forest appears. Much of the trees here are non-native pine, with clear signs of logging routes. A series of hydro works have been taking place in Glen Etive since 2019, some controversial amongst hikers who wish to preserve the rugged nature of this glen, surrounded by oft in demand hiking routes and summits. Nevertheless, progress marches on unrelentingly.

The forest also provides the first habitat for deer, the glen's most populous inhabitants. At this time of year towards the end of winter, deer are still found in the valley where the temperature is more forgiving. In spring they will return to higher climbs. We would often spot deer near the road or treeline while driving the worn road here.

Just a bit further on, the road ascends suddenly, clinging to the hillside above Lochan Urr. This "little lake" provides an exquisite vantage point for the backsides of Buachaille Etive Beag and Buachaille Etive Mòr to the north, and a complete view of Ben Starav to the south. Midweek these peaks were snow-capped.

Descending back to the valley floor, more forest gives home to several buildings, the last locals still clinging to the remoteness of this place. Fields for horses and a few token sheep were mostly full of grazing deer, easily able to leap the fences any time they so wished. Past the next stream was our home for the week, but I'll get back to that in a moment.

Past Ben Starav, the glen widens as the river Etive snakes downhill to its eventual end at Loch Etive. Here the road ends at a car park, popular with campers even during the rainy first days of the holiday, with only a jetty and boggy trail beyond it. After a few rainy days with limited visibility, Ben Cruachan far beyond revealed itself to us.

Glen Etive has no amenities, no businesses, no public toilets. Aside from the few houses and holiday lets, the main draw is the scenery. Many wild campers, both in tents and camper vans, revel in a stop along their journey through Glen Coe, and yet more pull in to passing places briefly for choice photos of the landscape.

It was a real privilege to stay here for a week. The drive from the main road to our accommodation took 20 to 30 minutes each way, and it was hard not to get consistently excited for it. Each time I found new vantage points and ideas for photo scenes, realised on future trips. Once the first few days' rains departed, clear skies and the gift of an overnight snow flurry above the freezing level beckoned my camera to retake many of my photos.

Accommodation

Sophie and I stayed at Glen Etive Schoolhouse, a self-catered house of our own for seven nights. For the low season we only paid £550.

A winding track from the glen road brought us down to the schoolhouse, nestled between forest on one side and tributary on the other. At the bottom of the garden wall, heather gives way to rocks and then the river Etive itself. On the other side, Stob Dubh and Beinn Chaorach loomed large, often with their heads in the clouds. On a clear day, facing south the top of Ben Starav could be seen between hillside and tree.

The schoolhouse itself was thick-walled, large, and well equipped. A generous living room with wood burning fire provided us with somewhere to relax, while a high ceiling kitchen would be where most of our meals would be had. Plenty of room in the hall and a downstairs toilet completed the floor. Upstairs, a bedroom with double bed looking out over the nearby stream, and a second bedroom with two single beds - clearly space for plenty of people. The bathroom contained a bath and shower with a curtain.

Overall, we were more than happy with the property's amenities, in fact we had too much space to play with. It was quiet, exceptionally dark, and for the first few nights, slightly unnerving, being so far from anyone else.

Relaxation

Our base would realise the original dream of this holiday - to relax and get away from the high paced daily demands and distractions.

This is exceptionally easy in Glen Etive as there is no phone signal. The accommodation guidebook went out of its way to note that BT has attempted to fit a phone line to the house but have been unable to do so - it is simply too remote. Those same stunning munros block out cellular towers, so while in the glen, we were completely detached from the outside world. Switching off would be easy, but the prospect of having a medical emergency requiring a 30-minute drive for phone signal was in the back of our minds.

As a result, late lie-ins and early nights were had. We both brought our laptops, affording Sophie a chance to write and me a chance to edit some of last year's 10,000 photos. We felt productive and without pressure, or could just relax without feeling like failures. The house's DVD collection was put to good use. First up was Skyfall, naturally.

The wood burning fire in the living room was my favourite part of our accommodation. Armed with two backseats full of wood and kindling, we felt overly prepared for a roaring fire each night, but we got through most of our supply. Crackling logs engulfed in rolling flames was a constant evening backdrop, burning for hours under my constant maintenance. Keeping a fire burning well takes effort, a process which I found cathartic.

On reflection, Glen Etive Schoolhouse was almost the perfect winter getaway. Cosy, embedded in its natural surroundings, quiet, and easily warm, it only missed a perfect score for its sheer remoteness. We are now planning a similar trip next year, somewhere with phone signal and walking distance from a pub!

Food

We brought enough food to eat three meals each day in the schoolhouse, but of course it's more fun to sample local eateries. Our closest restaurant was at Kingshouse Hotel, within viewing distance at the nearest road junction at the top of Glen Coe. This upmarket hotel provides hikers and skiers unparalleled highlands scenery, the Glencoe Mountain Resort the only other building in the area.

Price be damned, a nice holiday demands nice meals. On our first night we had dinner in the restaurant, then returned on Thursday for lunch in the bar. Both meals were superlative. I had venison both times, keen to taste the highland delicacy while here. The treacle sponge with salted caramel ice cream delivered me to tastebud heaven on both occasions, too good to pass up at lunch.

Beyond this, a stop at Castle Stalker Viewpoint was our only other meal away from home. I did a lot of solo travelling throughout the week and often had few places to stop for food, so I took sandwiches or went without, gorging on the evening meal instead.

Glen Coe

It would be a waste to stay right around the corner from Glen Coe and not visit it. Of course, we passed through it multiple times on the way to other adventures, but we made sure to take the time and stop in it properly on Wednesday afternoon.

Around that, I stopped at Stob Dearg, Meeting of Three Waters, The Three Sisters, and Loch Achtriochtan whenever the weather or lighting merited another stop.

Our "Glen Coe day" started with Lagangarbh, home to my favourite white house in Scotland - the Scottish Mountaineering Club's building at the base of Buachaille Etive Mòr. The sun directly behind the mountain made capturing a good photo difficult, but I was happy with my effort from the National Trust for Scotland sign, an angle that includes the river Coupall.

Further down we parked up and attempted to get onto Old Military Road, this section part of the West Highland Way. The charged river meant parking further back and elongating the walk, but views across The Three Sisters and a vantage point directly down the road made the walk exciting and breathtakingly beautiful.

Our destination was Ralston Cairn, dedicated to Ralston Claud Muir. The poignant tribute overlooking The Three Sisters and down towards Loch Achtriochtan was surprisingly hard to find, but a worthwhile find and resting point before heading back.

Continuing down the valley, we stopped in at the Glencoe Visitor Centre. Here we found an exhibition on hiking in the glen and mountain rescue, enjoyed a video detailing the construction of their traditional MacDonald turf house, and then got to explore it ourselves, surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Afterwards the café and visitor centre provided a refuel and mementos. What more could you ask for? This was an impressive attraction.

Glen Creran

Our first adventure of the holiday was to Glen Creran. This tucked away valley was just west of Glen Etive and potentially walkable from the house (a feat I'd originally considered) but would have taken dawn until dusk to complete. Instead, we drove around via the coast and past Castle Stalker. Here we enjoyed coffee, cake, and a view of the Monty Python and the Holy Grail castle from atop of the car park.

As we approached Glen Creran, the road quickly deteriorated into single-track. Eventually the solitary car park spelled the end of the road and the start of a quick walk, albeit one full of drizzle and rain.

Retracing the road we ascended into the trees through muddy worn paths alongside a stream, catching views of waterfalls between the trees. Atop the largest sits a stone bridge with spiky sides, affectionately known as The Fairy Bridge of Glen Creran.

This magical place is an unironic "hidden gem", with little information present online aside from a hiking route and a few blog posts. Its inaccessibility perhaps keeps it away from travel TikToks / Instagram Reels, so many would-be visitors are missing out.

The stream cascading through, and the moss-covered bridge and trees gives an ancient quality to both the bridge and its setting. We lingered a while, I took photos from every angle, and then we eagerly returned to the dry car interior.

Oban

On Monday we headed to Oban via Loch Awe, allowing us to stop at Kilchurn Castle and St Conan's Kirk along the way. The former is not worth getting close to, instead a visit to an opposite shore provides a photo of the loch, castle, and mountains behind. Alas, this day more rain kept us from Loch Awe's shores, and a simple photo from the lay-by would be good enough.

We had a much more fruitful time at St Conan's Kirk. My third visit but Sophie's first, the surprisingly recent kirk (church) dazzled with its semi-circular ambulatory behind the altar. Set on the shores of Loch Awe, a quick trip to the back garden reveals a haphazard exterior incorporating multiple styles, and with creamy replacement stones, work still ongoing to keep the building for future generations.

Soon we arrived in Oban. My only previous visit was to catch the ferry to the Isle of Mull last October, so just being back got me excited with both nostalgia and longing for a repeat trip this May with friends. A well-known port for seafood, Oban is otherwise quiet and dishevelled, especially on a winter's weekday.

Our first port of call was breakfast. Immediately after we trudged steeply uphill to McCaig's Tower, a perplexing Victorian amphitheatre overlooking Oban, constructed to look like Rome's Coliseum, but not completed.

Beyond exploring the structure was the best view of Oban, the isle of Kerrera, and Mull's mountains disappearing into distant clouds. From here the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry port was clearly visible, and we watched the MV Isle of Mull arrive into port.

Morvern

After several days of rain and cloud, and one ill-fated attempt to hike that saw me bend a hiking pole and roll down a steep hillside, I gave up on the idea of hiking this holiday. Instead, I would take the car and adventure. My first sights were set on Ardnamurchan - the western most part of Great Britain (the mainland).

Getting there involved driving down Glen Coe, then catching the car ferry to Corran. This ferry bypasses Loch Linhe, Fort William, and the multi-hour drive around via rough single-track road. For £10 a short ferry hop delivered me to Morvern, an area overlooking the isle of Mull.

Once disembarked, I felt as if I had stepped into another world. Much like arriving on Mull, a strong sense of remoteness took hold, despite the proximity of civilisation across the water. Arterial roads with rarely a house in sight snaked the rugged landscape, and I was in my element.

After crossing Glen Tarbert, I enjoyed views across Loch Sunart before getting deep into Morvern, aiming for Lochaline. From here my original plan was to drive up to Bunavullin where I might be able to catch a view of Tobermory across the Sound of Mull. Maybe my fieldscope could discern its colourful buildings, still fresh in the mind from October.

Lochaline was stunningly moody. Strong sunbeams pierced the clouds and illuminated the sound for my arrival. I pulled up at the community centre where I bought a hot chocolate, then wandered down to the ferry terminal. Cars queued for the short journey to Mull, specifically Fishnish. I briefly considered going myself.

Walking further along the coast to the next jetty, I crossed paths with a woman from Yorkshire. As she entertained her two sprockers on the beach, we chatted about the area, the best place to spot otters (no luck unfortunately) and how she found herself here - her husband worked in a coal mine until it closed, then they moved here so he would work in a nearby sand mine. She seemed content with the remoteness and slow easy-going pace. I envied her.

Making my way back to Lochaline, I felt the tug of home, and Sophie who had asked me to return by dark. My lie-in left me with little time to play with, and I'd enjoyed most of it around Morvern. Seeing Tobermory felt a waste of what was left, so I headed back to Loch Sunart for a chance at wildlife watching.

A walk through steep forest revealed a wildlife hide on the forest's edge. From here views of Garbh Eilean could provide opportunities to watch otters, seals, herons, and maybe even golden eagles. Instead, two kayakers put to bed any chance of wildlife, though two nearby common seals either hadn't noticed or didn't care.

Heading home from here, I spent my time waiting for the ferry contemplating a return before the trip's end. Ardnamurchan was still firmly my target.

Ardnamurchan

On the last day of the trip, I did exactly that. Back across the Corran ferry I went. A morning's walk from Polloch to the edges of Loch Shiel would be first. Polloch proved a remote collection of several houses, with incredibly hill and forest scenery along the route.

At the edge of Loch Shiel, I was treated to panoramic views of the loch and the mouth of river Polloch. The train meandered through pine forest, down to the water's edge and a pontoon, the perfect position for photos.

The morning's digression sharpened my mind, so I made haste back to Strontian and towards Salen, where I turned off the main road into Ardnamurchan. Destination: Point of Ardnamurchan and its lighthouse. From here that meant a scenic one-hour drive along the coast and over hills. What a shame.

The drive was unknowingly elongated by frequent stops for photos, and then suddenly by Ardnamurchan Distillery which beckoned me in and sent me away with a bottle. I stopped briefly at Kilchoan too, photographing Mingary Castle from Mingary Pier, empty at this time.

When the road eventually ended at Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, I was not alone, but most stopped only briefly as it was cold, windy, and the visitor centre was closed for the low season. Regardless, rugged coastline views could be had of Coll to the south-west and The Small Isles of Eigg, Much, and Rùm to the north. The first cardinal extreme of Great Britain was complete. The next will fall in April with my tour of the North Coast 500.

The drive back was easy going. At Salen I turned left, heading towards Mallaig via Kinlochmoidart. Here I would enjoy views of Loch Moidart and then the Sound of Arisaig. While scouring the horizon from the shore, I spotted the jagged peaks of the Black Cullin mountain range on the Isle of Skye, barely visible in the clouds behind Arisaig, 32 miles away.

After driving back via Glenfinnan and Fort William where I fuelled up the car for tomorrow's return home, I drove back down Glen Etive one last time. The setting sun illuminated sky behind the peaks, hazy orange. I chased it, driving the winding unsighted roads as fast as I dared. Emotion came over me - this beautiful trip was ending, and I welled up on the verge of tears. One last stop at the Skyfall viewpoint reminded me of just how fortunate we were to call Glen Etive our home for a week.

Conclusion

An utterly memorable holiday to Glen Etive, away from civilisation and the internet, provided opportunities for both relaxation and adventure. The winter highlands holiday experience is one both Sophie and I will be eagerly seeking for next year, though maybe somewhere with phone signal.